To be precise: The Hawaiian alphabet has only twelve letters. Some words consist of vowels, so many that they sound like grunts Bavarian: You should always meet with Ha'aha'a (humility) and much Ahonui (patience) and the human use in case of a conflict, the method of Ho'oponopono. Further regulates the physician or pharmacist, by the way very successful: Even today, despite all the Americanization of the U.S. state of Hawaii is the best health statistics.

True enough, this is not exactly the main idea had been on a surfboard. In music there are the pause: the moment of keeping, collecting, of waiting before a solo. This pause in the water we have here in front of the Hanalei Beach now extended long enough, but more time will not.

The wave is clearly higher than a wave on Lake Starnberg, curls itself easy, the undertow pulls on an already powerful, and we try desperately to brace ourselves against it. As I said, the sea speaks to one would then not be bad if the ears were free.

When you see how the wave builds up, Titus has just been said, then turn up the nose of your board in the wake of the oncoming water. And if you see then how light foam flags announce the tilting of the shaft, then you have the paddle board with all along, the press board down, you set up quickly, going from a squatting position in the stand with one foot forward one to the rear, with the body on the board and feel the wave and participate in a bent, resilient attitude then any movement from sinking into the sun.

Sure, no problem, I say, paddle fast, quickly erect, elastic cushion, and then off to paradise. What's so difficult, have learned to swim with four ships and sink with six and eight Negro Köpper.

Titus does not understand anything, he must not, he looks perplexed only because of the visitors, now full of anger and salt water, has given up and is already well on the way back to the beach, where he made his longboard throws with his last strength in the sand before He gets out of the car dry clothes. Surfing shit. Fucking sea. For all I can say it so much it wants. But not me.

After all, at the end of Titus is my goodbye but even a friendly handshake. He turns around, walks a few steps, stops. , Want to know what you did wrong?''